DK weight soaker

You will need

50gm (100gm, 100gm, 100gm, 150gm) yarn.

1 x 3.25mm circular needle (NB. 60cm is fine for larger sizes, but 40cm is good for all sizes. If you use a 60cm circular b=needle the first round after casting on will be tight, but once the first round is completed it is easy) 

1 x 3.75 mm circular needle

1 pair of 3.75mm straight needles

2 stitch holders

2 stitch markers (small tied loops of yarn work fine for this)

1 x 3.75mm Double pointed needle

1 set 3.25mm Double pointed needles

1 (1, 2, 2, 2) x 50gm balls double knitting weight yarn.

1 yarn needle (for sewing)

Sizes are

XSmall (approx 0-4 months)

Hips 16"

Rise 14"

Small (approx 3-12 months)

Hips 18"

Rise 16"

Medium (approx 9-18 months)

Hips 20"

Rise 18"

Large (approx 15-30 months)

Hips 22"

Rise 20"

X Large (approx 2-4 yrs)

Hips 24"

Rise 22"

METHOD

Using a 3.25mm circular needle cast on 96 (108, 120, 132, 144) stitches.

Join the round then complete 5 rounds K2 P2 rib

Video link to joining the round

Next round make cord holes.

*K2 Yfd K2tog, K2 yFd, K2tog * Repeat to end of round.

Complete 5 more rounds K2P2 rib

K3, turn

P6, turn,

K13 (14 15, 16, 17) turn

P20 (22, 24, 26, 28) turn

K27 (30, 33, 36, 39) turn

P34 (38, 42, 46, 50) turn

K41 (46, 51, 56, 61) turn

P48 (54, 60, 66, 72) turn

K 72 (81, 90, 99, 108) Place a stitch marker and continue to the end of the round.

Change to a 3.75mm circular needle, and continue knitting in the round until your work measures 4” (4.5”, 5”, 5.5”, 6”) from the bottom of the cord holes, measuring at the centre FRONT of the soaker, and finishing the round at the centre back stitch marker.

K72 (82, 90, 99, 108)

Slip the last 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) stitches you knitted onto a stitch holder)

Using a straight 3.75mm needle K48 (54, 60, 66, 72) stitches from the circular needle onto the straight needle. (there should be a stitch marker marking the centre of the row) Then slip the next 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) onto the straight needle, and from there slip these slipped stitches onto a stitch holder. Turn your work.

Leaving the remainder of the needles on the circular needle for later, continue with both straight needles (you are no longer knitting in the round)

*K1, P to penultimate stitch, K1. Turn

K2, K2tog, K to last 4 stitches on the needle Sl1, k1, PSSO, K2.*

Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 22 stitches on the needle (11 each side of the stitch marker).

Slip these 22 stitches onto a DPN (Double Pointed Kneedle) and leave till later.

Tip – as you work these decreases, keep checking that you have an equal number of stitches either side of your stitch marker at the start of ever every purl row – it's easy to forget a decrease otherwise 

Go back to the stitches which remain on the original circular needle.

Join in your ball of yarn. Using a straight 3.75mm needle, K the remaining stitches. 

*K1, P to penultimate stitch, K1. Turn

K2, K2tog, K to last 4 stitches on the needle Sl1, k1, PSSO, K2.*

Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 22 stitches on the needle (11 each side of the stitch marker)

You will now have 2 needles each with 22 stitches on - the DPN with the back stitches, and the needle you have just been using. Now you need to graft these 2 sets of stitches together.

The Cuffs

Join in your yarn, using the tail end as well as the main yarn ball for the first 4 stitches you pick up. Using 3 of your set of 3.25mm DPNs, pick up and knit 34 (41,48,55,58) stitches evenly around the cuff, then knit across the stitches on the stitch holder. You should now have 40 (48,56,64,68) stitches on 3 of your DPNs. Here's a video

Make a draw cord for the waist.